Northern Lights M864 Generator Set

Tools: Hand primer pump

1. Bleed air from the fuel system.
2. Remove the fuel injection line from the No. 1 fuel delivery valve on the injection pump.
3. Pressurize the system with the hand primer pump.
4. Slowly rotate the crankshaft by hand clockwise until fuel just begins to rise in the No. 1 delivery valve.
5. The crankshaft pulley notch mark for 13° Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) should align with the timing pointer; if not, the pump needs to be timed.

1. Identify the interference preventing the latch pawl from engaging the pawl slot.
2. Verify latch pawl operates freely within the slot when latch handle rotates on removal.
3. With latch closed, loosen the bottom nut and turn the top nut to change pawl position.
4. Re-tighten the bottom nut fully before operating the latch.
5. Verify pawl swings into position, pulls up, and engages the top of the slot with increasing resistance and firm seal compression.

Tools: Feeler gauge

1. Readjust valve clearance after first 50 hours; then every 750 hours.
2. Warm up engine to 167 F - 185 F (75 C - 85 C); shut off fuel and battery.
3. Rotate crankshaft clockwise to set cylinder No. 1 at top dead center (TDC).
4. TDC is when the notch 'TDC' on the pulley aligns with the pointer and the two valves on cylinder No. 4 rock.
5. Measure the valve clearance for each indicated valve.
6. To adjust, loosen the lock nut on the adjustment screw and insert a feeler gauge between rocker arm and valve stem cap.
7. Adjust until the feeler gauge slides with a slight drag; tighten lock nut and recheck.
8. Rotate crankshaft one full clockwise turn to set cylinder No. 4 at TDC and adjust the remaining valves.
9. Replace the rocker arm cover.

⚠ Always disconnect the battery ground strap before making adjustments.

Tools: Feeler gauge, Wrench

1. Readjust valve clearance after first 50 hours; adjust every 750 hours thereafter.
2. Warm up engine to 167° F - 185° F (75° C - 85° C); shut off fuel and battery.
3. Rotate crankshaft clockwise to set cylinder No. 1 to top dead center (TDC).
4. Measure the valve clearance for each valve; standard clearance hot: intake 0.007 - 0.009 in. (0.18 - 0.22 mm), exhaust 0.013 - 0.015 in. (0.33 - 0.37 mm).
5. Loosen the lock nut on the adjustment screw, insert a feeler gauge between rocker arm and valve stem cap.
6. Adjust until the feeler gauge slides with slight drag; tighten the lock nut and recheck clearance.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise one full turn to set cylinder No. 4 to TDC and adjust the remaining valves.
8. Replace the rocker arm cover.

⚠ Avoid positioning enclosure into corners with overhead blocked to reduce intake/exhaust air recirculation.

⚠ Generator sets with wet exhaust installed near or below the vessel's water line must use a siphon break to prevent backflow that can ruin the engine or sink the vessel.

⚠ Leak alarm light will not operate if polarity is switched.

Tools: hand tools (no tools on seal bar/ring latch thumb screws)

1. Select mounting location per IM1000 Installation Manual, on a rigid flat surface above a strong structure.
2. Install rear panel assembly to the back face of the genset base; secure with M8 hardware.
3. Insert genset air intake snorkel hose into the receiver on the rear panel until it hits the tab stop.
4. Install right side lower valence panel, then left side lower valence panel.
5. Install front lower valence, aligning holes to pins on both side valence panels.
6. Secure front valence to base frame with M8 flatwasher, lockwasher, and hex head capscrew.
7. Connect exhaust, sea water, fuel, DC control harness, battery leads, and AC output leads through the rear panel holes.
8. Install non-service side panel using thumb screws A and B.
9. Install front panel assembly, engaging pins in the front lower valence and securing with thumb screws.
10. Install leak alarm light assembly and connecting harness before installing the service side aft panel.
11. Connect sound shield wire harness to emergency stop switch and leak alarm light, observing lead polarity.
12. Install float switch to the bracket on the base frame; verify leak alarm light operation.
13. Install seal bar assembly, securing with thumb screw A at four places, hand tight only.
14. Install top panel assembly, aligning six locating pins with corresponding holes.
15. Install service side panel assembly, guiding nylon locator pins into slots and closing ring latch.

⚠ Backflow of water into the engine from wet exhaust installed near or below the waterline can ruin the engine and possibly sink the vessel if a siphon break is not used

Tools: extra long Phillips screwdriver

1. Inspect all components for damage and check the packing list before assembly
2. Select mounting location per IM1000 Installation Manual on a rigid, flat surface above a strong structure such as the vessel's stringers
3. Install toe brackets to all four corners using machine screws, flat washers, and nylock nuts; engage firmly but do not fully tighten
4. Install vertical corner extrusions to toe brackets using short bolting assemblies; tighten just enough to check movement
5. Slide long bolting assemblies and nylon panel keeper blocks into the forward vertical extrusions
6. Mount the side vertical center posts to the sub-base using machine screws, flat washers, and nylock nuts
7. Raise and position the pre-assembled top frame over the four vertical extrusions and anchor the center bar connector brackets
8. Install the rear panel assembly, engaging the retainer clips and rear panel gasket, then secure the bottom with capscrews and flat washers
9. Install the stainless steel wet exhaust tube between the generator's exhaust elbow and the rear panel grommet; install four hose clamps
10. Connect exhaust, sea water, fuel, DC control harness, battery, and AC output leads through the rear panel holes
11. If required, install a siphon break at the penetration plate for wet exhaust near or below the vessel's waterline
12. Start the generator set and run under load to check for leaks of fuel, water, or exhaust gas
13. Install the remaining cover panels, adjusting for approximately 0.09 in clearance around the panel perimeter
14. Insert foam blocks into the base pan mounting foot pockets and adhere in place

⚠ Make absolutely sure no impurities enter the engine while changing the element; do not run the engine with the air cleaner removed.

⚠ Do not clean the filter with diesel fuel, solvent, or gasoline.

1. Visually inspect air cleaner every 200 hours; check more often in dusty conditions.
2. Remove the plate on the side of the air intake manifold.
3. Remove and inspect the foam element.
4. If dirty, wash element in soapy water; rinse and dry thoroughly before reinstalling.

⚠ Escaping diesel fuel under pressure can penetrate skin causing serious personal injury; relieve pressure before disconnecting lines.

⚠ If injured by escaping fuel, see a doctor at once.

Tools: Cardboard or wood (for leak check)

1. The fuel system is self-bleeding but may need manual bleeding after filter change, running out of fuel, or component removal/installation.
2. Loosen the bleed nipple on top of the fuel filter.
3. Pump the hand primer on the fuel lift pump until pure fuel (no bubbles) escapes from the bleed nipple; tighten the nipple.
4. If the engine does not start, loosen a fuel line at the injector while cranking until pure fuel escapes; tighten. Do each line one at a time.
5. After starting, use a piece of cardboard to look for fuel leaks.

⚠ Overtightening can damage the filter housing.

Tools: Filter wrench

1. Change the lube oil filter every 200 hours.
2. Use a filter wrench to remove the old filter; dispose of it in an approved manner.
3. Make sure the old filter gasket is removed and discarded; clean the mount face.
4. Spread a thin film of engine oil on the new filter gasket and screw it on until the gasket meets the sealing surface.
5. Tighten by hand one-half turn farther; do not use a wrench.
6. Fill engine with recommended oil; start engine, check for leakage, stop, wait 3 minutes and check oil level.

1. Check tension and wear on the V-belt every 50 hours.
2. Press on the belt at the midpoint between the crankshaft and alternator pulleys with your thumb.
3. Tension is correct if the belt can be depressed about 3/8 in. (10 - 15 mm) with 22 lbs. (10 kg) force.

⚠ Close the sea-cock before working on the engine cooling system; be sure to open the sea-cock after working on it and before starting the engine.

⚠ The cooling water reaches extremely high temperatures; allow the engine to cool before working on the cooling system.

1. Flush the cooling system every 750 hours or every 12 months, whichever comes first.
2. Remove fill cap and open drains on engine block.
3. Pour clean water into the engine until water coming from the engine is clear of discoloration.
4. Close drains and refill with recommended coolant mixture (50% water / 50% ethylene glycol antifreeze).
5. Check hoses and connections and repair any leakage.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks; run five minutes, shut down, let cool, and check coolant level.

Tools: Metal rod

1. Clean the heat exchanger core once a year or after 2400 hours of operation.
2. Drain the expansion tank and heat exchanger.
3. Remove the heat exchanger end covers.
4. Clean the inside of the exchanger core tubes using a metal rod.
5. Flush, inspect, and clean again if necessary.
6. Reassemble the heat exchanger, fill the cooling system, start the engine and check for leaks.