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Cummins/Onan MDJC Troubleshooting

Cummins/Onan MDJC troubleshooting: 2 fault codes and 120 symptom-cause-remedy entries from the manufacturer's own service documentation.

Cummins/Onan MDJC — full specs, parts & maintenance.

All Cummins/Onan fault codes →

Troubleshooting

122

Fault codes

CodeMeaning
e008No specific name provided for e008
10Overload

Symptoms & remedies

SymptomCauseRemedy
Engine will not crankBattery dischargedRecharge
Engine will not crankLoose connectionsTighten connections
Engine will not crankDefective starting circuitRepair or replace as necessary
Engine will not crankDefective starting motor on revolving field generatorRepair or replace as necessary
Engine will not crankDefective switchReplace
Engine will not crankPoor generator brush contact on revolving armature generatorReplace brush. Refinish surface
Engine cranks too stifflyToo heavy oil in crankcaseDrain, refill with lighter oil
Engine cranks too stifflyEngine stuckDisassemble and repair
Engine cranks too stifflyLoad connectedDisconnect
Engine cranks too stifflyDecompression release (on 1 cyl diesel) at running positionPlace at start position
Engine will not start when crankedAir in fuel systemBleed the fuel system
Engine will not start when crankedLack of fuel or faulty injection caused by dirty fuelRefill the tank. Check the fuel system. Clean, adjust, or replace parts necessary
Engine will not start when crankedClogged fuel filterClean strainer (primary). Install new cartridge (secondary)
Engine will not start when crankedPoor compressionTighten cylinder head. Replace head gasket. If still not corrected, grind the valves. Replace piston rings, if necessary
Engine will not start when crankedWrong timingCheck injection pump timing
Engine stops when start switch is releasedCentrifugal switch remained openClean and adjust
Engine runs but voltage does not build upPoor brush contactSee that brushes seat well, are free in their holders, are not worn too short, and have good spring tension
Engine runs but voltage does not build upOpen circuit, short circuit, or ground in generatorReplace parts necessary
Engine runs but voltage does not build upResidual magnetism lostSpec B exciters - press residual reset button; spec A exciters — consult dealer
Engine runs but voltage does not build upDirty relay contacts in 02SX MagneciterClean with paper
Engine runs but voltage does not build upFaulty MagneciterTrouble shoot Magneciter
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustPoor compression, usually due to worn piston, rings, or cylinderRefinish cylinder. Install oversize piston and rings
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustOil leaks from oil base or connections. This does not cause smoky exhaustReplace gaskets. Tighten screws and connection. Check breather valve
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustOil too light or dilutedDrain, refill with correct oil
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustWorn engineRepair as necessary
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustWorn intake valve guide or valve stemReplace
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustEngine misfiringRefer to symptoms of engine misfiring
Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaustToo much oilDrain excess oil
Black, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, possible low power under heavy loadGenerator overloaded. Black smoky exhaust normal condition with overloadReduce load to within rated capacity. If smoky condition continues, stop unit and investigate
Black, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, possible low power under heavy loadPoor compressionTighten cylinder head, grind or replace valves, replace piston rings as needed
Black, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, possible low power under heavy loadPoor grade or dirty fuelUse only clean, recommended fuel
Black, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, possible low power under heavy loadInjection pump or nozzle not operating properlyClean nozzle. If necessary, install new nozzle or injection pump
Black, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, possible low power under heavy loadFaulty injection timingCheck injection pump timing
Black, smoky exhaust, excessive fuel consumption, possible low power under heavy loadDirty air cleanerClean
Engine stops unexpectedlyFuel tank emptyRefill
Engine stops unexpectedlySafety switch operated (where used)Correct the overheating or the lubrication failure. Press reset switch. Replace unless one of the next two remedies permanently corrects the trouble
Dull metallic thud. If not bad, may disappear after few minutes operation. If bad, increases with loadLoose crankshaft bearingReplace
Dull metallic thud. If not bad, may disappear after few minutes operation. If bad, increases with loadLow oil supplyAdd oil
Dull metallic thud. If not bad, may disappear after few minutes operation. If bad, increases with loadOil badly dilutedChange oil
Sharp metallic thud, especially when cold engine first startedValve clearance too greatAdjust. Replace faulty valve system
Sharp metallic thud, especially when cold engine first startedBroken valve springInstall new spring
Tapping soundLoose pistonIf noise only slight and disappears when engine warms up, no immediate attention needed. Otherwise replace worn parts
Hollow clicking sound with cool engine under loadLoose connecting rod bearingAdjust or replace
Light pounding knock (knock from firing of fuel is normal)Low oil supplyAdd oil
Light pounding knock (knock from firing of fuel is normal)Oil badly dilutedChange oil
Engine racesToo much fuel injected. STOP UNIT AT ONCE!Check governor performance and linkage condition
Engine misfiresFaulty injectionClean fuel system. Use clean recommended fuel
Engine misfiresLow compressionTighten cylinder head. Service valves and piston rings as needed
Low oil pressureDefective gaugeReplace
Low oil pressureOil too light or diluted from leaking fuel pump diaphragmDrain. Refill with proper oil. Repair or replace transfer pump
Low oil pressureOil too lowAdd oil
Low oil pressureOil relief valve not seatingClean. Replace if needed
Low oil pressureBadly worn bearingsReplace
Low oil pressureSludge on oil cup screenClean screen and oil sump
Low oil pressureBadly worn oil pumpReplace
High oil pressureDefective gaugeReplace
High oil pressureOil too heavy gradeDrain. Refill
High oil pressureClogged oil passagesClean all lines and passages
High oil pressureOil relief valve stuckClean by-pass. Replace if needed
Engine overheatingPoor coolant circulationMaintain supply
Engine overheatingImproper lubricationSee Low Oil Pressure
Engine overheatingWrong injection timingRetime
Engine overheatingGenerator overloadedReduce load
Voltage low at far end of line but normal near power plantToo small line wire for load and distanceInstall larger or extra wires or reduce load
Electric motor runs too slowly and overheats at far end of line but OK if used near power unitToo small line wire for load and distanceInstall larger or extra wires or reduce load
Voltage unsteady but engine not misfiringSpeed too lowAdjust governor to correct speed
Voltage unsteady but engine not misfiringPoor brush contact (or poor commutation on revolving armature models)See that brushes seat well on commutator, are free in their holders, are not worn too short, and have good spring tension
Voltage unsteady but engine not misfiringLoose connectionsTighten connections
Voltage unsteady but engine not misfiringFluctuating loadCorrect any abnormal load condition causing trouble
Noisy and excessive arcing of brushes (revolving armature model)Rough commutatorTurn down. Undercut mica between bars
Noisy and excessive arcing of brushes (revolving armature model)Dirty commutatorClean
Noisy and excessive arcing of brushes (revolving armature model)Brushes not seating properlySand to a good seat
Noisy and excessive arcing of brushes (revolving armature model)Open circuit in armatureReplace
Noisy and excessive arcing of brushes (revolving armature model)Brush rig out of positionLine up properly
Generator overheating (approximately 160°F. higher than ambient)Brush rig out of position (Revolving armature generator)Adjust
Generator overheating (approximately 160°F. higher than ambient)OverloadedReduce load
Voltage drops under heavy loadEngine lacks powerSee remedies for engine misfires
Voltage drops under heavy loadPoor compressionTighten cylinder head and spark plug. If still not corrected, grind the valves. Replace piston rings, if necessary
Voltage drops under heavy loadFaulty injectionCheck the fuel system. Clean, adjust or replace parts necessary
Voltage drops under heavy loadDirty air cleanerClean
Voltage drops under heavy loadRestricted exhaust lineClean or increase the size
No build up of AC output voltage — Is Field Breaker CB21 on control panel ON?Proceed to step 2 if YES; proceed to step 3 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Connect jumper wire across terminals of Field Breaker, CB21. Does AC output voltage build up?Field breaker defectiveIf voltage builds up REPLACE FIELD BREAKER; if not, proceed to step 4
No build up of AC output voltage — Push to reset Field Breaker. Does AC output voltage build up?If voltage builds up but is high, low, unstable, or causes tripping of Field Breaker, refer to Tables B, C, or D
No build up of AC output voltage — Disconnect alternator stator leads 1 & 2 from TB21-1 and TB21-2 on VR22. Is reference voltage across 1 & 2 20 VAC or more?Proceed to step 14 if YES; proceed to step 13 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Is exciter field voltage across F1+ and F2- on endbell terminal block 7.0 VDC or more?Wiring harness W9 from end bell to VR22 terminals 3 and 4 may be faultyIf not, check wiring harness W9 from end bell to VR22 terminals 3 and 4
No build up of AC output voltage — Are diodes CR1, CR2, CR3, CR4, CR5, CR6 in rotating rectifier assemblies OK?Defective diode(s) — check all diodes, more than one may be defective
No build up of AC output voltage — Flash exciter field. Is reference voltage across 1 and 2 now 20 VAC or more?Proceed to step 14 if YES; proceed to step 13 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Reconnect generator leads 1 & 2 to TB21-1 and TB21-2 on VR22. Does reference voltage build up?Proceed to step 15 if YES; proceed to step 13 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Is regulator DC output voltage across VR21-7 and VR21-8 7 VDC or more?Proceed to step 16 if YES; proceed to step 18 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Are SCR's CR13 and CR16 OK?Proceed to step 17 if YES; proceed to step 18 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Are diodes CR12, CR14, and CR15 OK?Proceed to step 18 if YES; proceed to step 18 if NO
No build up of AC output voltage — Replace voltage regulator PC board (VR21)Replace voltage regulator PC board (VR21)
AC output voltage builds up, but is unstable — Are there any loose or broken wires or connections on voltage regulator assembly VR22?Loose or broken wires or connections on voltage regulator assembly VR22Proceed to step 2 if YES; proceed to step 2 if NO
AC output voltage builds up, but is unstable — Is W9 (exciter field) wiring harness from VR22 to End bell OK?Proceed to step 3 if YES; proceed to step 4 if NO
AC output voltage builds up, but is unstable — Does adjustment of Damping Control R27 potentiometer on VR21 result in stable voltage?Proceed to step 4 if YES; proceed to Test Procedure A if NO
AC output voltage builds up, but is unstable — ReplaceReplace
Engine does not crank — Check 12 VDC to ground at battery BT1 and at starter motor B1. Check B+ present at TB11, K11, K13, S1, and M11.Proceed to step 2 if YES; proceed to Test Procedure A, G if NO
Engine does not crank — Is battery dead? Check if centrifugal switch S1 is open to ground. If S1 remains closed when set is shutdown, R11 and K14 will discharge through S1 to ground. Remove switch cover and check operation manually.Centrifugal switch S1 remains closed when set is shutdown, causing R11 and K14 to discharge through S1 to groundRemove switch cover and check operation manually
Engine does not crank — Replace S1. Replace or charge battery.Replace S1; Replace or charge battery
Engine does not crank — Jumper battery cable connection to ground at starter. Does engine crank?Proceed to step 6 if YES; proceed to step 7 if NO
Engine does not crank — Check starter motor. Repair or replace.Starter motor faultyRepair or replace
Engine does not crank — With S11 at START, is at least 7 volts present between terminal S on K11 and ground. Does K11 energize?Proceed to step 8 if YES; proceed to step 10 if NO
Engine does not crank — Does manual operation of K11 crank engine?Proceed to step 9 if YES; proceed to step 10 if NO
Engine does not crank — Jumper K11 from B+ to S terminal. Does engine crank?Proceed to step 10 if YES; proceed to step 11 if NO
Engine does not crank — Start relay K11 is defective; replace.Start relay K11 defectiveReplace
Engine does not crank — With S11 at START, jumper K11 contacts to starter solenoid. Does engine crank?Proceed to step 11A if YES; proceed to step 12 if NO
Engine does not crank — Replace K11.Replace K11
Engine does not crank — With S11 at START, jumper normally closed contacts of K12. Does engine crank and start?Proceed to step 13 if YES; proceed to step 10 if NO
Engine does not crank — Replace K12.Replace K12
Engine cranks but does not start — Is 12 VDC present between start terminal on S11 and ground (TB11-1) with S11 at START?Proceed to step 2 if YES; proceed to Test Procedure G if NO
Engine cranks but does not start — Is 12 VDC present between M11-B+ and ground TB11-1 with S11 at START? Check Wire W3 & W8.Proceed to step 3 if YES; proceed to step 4 if NO
Engine cranks but does not start — Replace faulty switch S11.Faulty switch S11Replace faulty switch S11
Engine cranks but does not start — Does engine operate on gasoline? Is fuel primer solenoid K3 energized when S11 is at START?Proceed to step 6 if YES; proceed to step 9 if NO
Engine cranks but does not start — Remove fuel solenoid from fuel line and press S11. Does fuel pulsate from line?Proceed to step 9 if YES; proceed to step 12 if NO
Engine cranks but does not start — Check lead from TB12-4 to fuel pump; check fuel pump and replace if necessary.Faulty fuel pump or lead from TB12-4 to fuel pumpCheck lead from TB12-4 to fuel pump; check fuel pump and replace if necessary
Engine cranks but does not start — Check engine oil level. If okay, remove LOP switch S4 lead at TB12-4. Does engine crank and run when S11 is pressed?Proceed to step 11 if YES; proceed to step 13 if NO
Engine cranks but does not start — Is lead 6 from TB12-6 to LOP switch S4 grounded?Proceed to step 12 if YES; proceed to Test Procedure G if NO
Engine cranks but does not start — Repair or replace lead 6 to S4.Lead 6 to S4 faultyRepair or replace lead 6 to S4
Engine cranks but does not start — If necessary, replace LOP switch S4.If necessary, replace LOP switch S4

Fault codes and symptom→remedy steps extracted from this model’s service/owner documentation; verify against the official manual before servicing.

Cross-brand guides for these symptoms

Common questions

Cummins/Onan MDJC: Excessive oil consumption, light blue smoky exhaust — what causes it?

Documented causes: Poor compression, usually due to worn piston, rings, or cylinder; Oil leaks from oil base or connections. This does not cause smoky exhaust; Oil too light or diluted; Worn engine. See the table for the matching fixes.

Cummins/Onan MDJC: Low oil pressure — what causes it?

Documented causes: Defective gauge; Oil too light or diluted from leaking fuel pump diaphragm; Oil too low; Oil relief valve not seating. See the table for the matching fixes.

Cummins/Onan MDJC: Engine will not crank — what causes it?

Documented causes: Battery discharged; Loose connections; Defective starting circuit; Defective starting motor on revolving field generator. See the table for the matching fixes.